Backpack to Buggy

Half way between Half Moon Bay and Ano Nuevo State Park, California, Pescadero is a popular lunch stop for day trips along the coast.  For me, it was edible heaven, calling me back three times during a two day trip for more great eats.  Click the following links to learn more about our stops.

Norm’s Market: From the outside it looks like a typical small town grocery and deli, but looks are so deceiving.

Duarte’s Tavern: Again, from the looks of this place, both inside and out, you could find this restaurant on any street in any town in America.  But then, you see the menu.

Harley Farms: This well known goat dairy was on my list of stops in Pescadero, but unfortunately it was closed the weekend we visited.  We did buy some of their goat cheese at Norm’s.  A little crumbly for eating the car without a knife, the flavor of this young cheese was creamy which nicely balanced the tang of goat milk.  For a taste (pun intended) of a visit to the farm, please check out Travel Savvy Mom’s video on The Birds and the Bees. And the Goats. (Because the elephant seals can’t have all the fun.)

After spending a fun day in Half Moon Bay, we returned to Pescadero for dinner at the over 100 year old Duarte’s Tavern.  This may be California’s answer to diner food; for me the menu was full of comfort food.

The layout of the restaurant and bar is eclectic with many small rooms that seemed to have been cobbled together as the restaurant grew.  After navigating a maze from the entrance, we were seated at a small table between the bar and the kitchen.  It was a high traffic location for a toddler, but we got to see everything going on and more importantly, all the food going by.

The menu will make everyone happy.  You can find burgers and fries, pork chops and apple sauce, crab melt or BLT.  There is a wide range of seafood cooked a variety of ways.  For locavores, there is enough locally grown olallieberries, artichokes and locally caught seafood to ensure you overeat.

We usually eat family style so we can try as much as possible and prefer to eat locally and seasonally.  So, for dinner we ordered the artichoke ravioli (warning, it sells out early), choppino (northern California’s answer to chowdah), and cracked Dungeness crab (it was my husband’s last weekend in California and he couldn’t get enough).

The ravioli was so good, I spent the next day searching stores in Pescadero and Half Moon Bay to bring some home.  Something about artichokes works so well with cheese (think the classic artichoke dip) but rather than cheese with a little artichoke, this was artichoke with just a touch of cheese.  The choppino was messy (red broth + toddler = lots of laundry) but tasty.  I really liked that the shellfish absorbed the flavor of the broth without being overcooked and chewy.  It’s hard to screw up or improve on fresh Dungeness crab, and our crab tasted very fresh.

But wait, there’s more. Duarte’s has a reputation for tasty, homemade pies. My husband has never met a pie he didn’t like and my daughter is following in his footsteps.  I wanted to try their award winning olallieberry pie.  After a filling dinner, we decided to share a piece of pie a la mode.

So would I go back?  Heck yes and earlier in the day so I can try any more specials that might have sold out.

Learn about other Pescadero Eats.

Though we had just had breakfast at Costanoa, we stopped at the Arcangeli Grocery Co., also known as Norm’s Market, to stock up on provisions for a beach picnic later in the day.  Half the food we bought did not make it to the beach.  This small grocery & deli is famous for their fresh baked breads, sauces, mustards, dipping oils and jams.

Norm's Market in Pescadero, CA

What they are most famous for is their homemade Artichoke Garlic Herb bread.  Imagine a loaf of the softest bread with a flavorful, chewy crust.  Now imagine about half of that loaf being filled with artichoke hearts, whole cloves of roasted garlic and herbs.  Most of our first loaf was gone before we had driven the two miles back to the coastal highway.

Artichoke Garlic Herb Bread

OK, I can’t write about it anymore or I will have to go online and order a few loaves.  They ship the bread partially baked and quickly, so the bread is fresh but delivery can cost more than the bread.  I am waiting until I finish my jar of Arcangeli’s Horseradish Mustard before I put in my next order.

We went back the following day more more bread, pie and cheese.  This time we waited until we reached Pescadero beach before digging into the bread and locally made cheese.

Learn about other Pescadero Eats.

What is better than a quiet getaway?  How about a quiet getaway that isn’t going to take days to reach or weeks to pay for?

A quiet spot to look at the canyon and beyond to the ocean at Costanoa.

After striking out on many last minute reservations attempts at the popular coastal California eco-resort Costanoa, I was ecstatic to enjoy a two night stay in the resort’s lodge during January for only $99/night.  With the threat of cold and rain, winter is quiet and a great bargain.  We hit the jackpot with warm, sunny weather after the marine layer (fog) burned off.

Costanoa’s resort concept is designed to let guests “Discover the Pace of Nature.”  What makes it special is the balance of simplicity and comforts and the freedom to let you choose how much of each you want to indulge in.

Entrance to the Costanoa lodge.

Lodging options include BYO tent and RV campgrounds, tent bungalows, cabins and a lodge. While the lodge bathroom is en suite, the “comfort stations” for the other options are upgraded with heated concrete floors, a 24 hour dry sauna and an outdoor fireplace.  Guests of the lodge, cabins and bungalow can use the hot tub.

View of hot tub and surrounding hills from our balcony.

Other on-site amenities include free WiFi (even from your tent), a general store, a bar and grill, a small playground, great views, and lots of open space to explore.  Activities include horseback riding, mountain biking, guided hikes, yoga classes, surf lessons, kayaking and massages.

So now that you know what Costanoa offers, what did I think?  It was understated.  It was thoughtful.  It was both mellow and energizing.

There were were no TVs, but empty refrigerators in the lodge rooms which are great for traveling families.  Our room was small, but well laid out with a balcony where we had a bottle of local wine purchased at the general store.  Pick up wine in Half Moon Bay or bring some with you; we were underwhelmed with the $15 red wine recommended.

Mirielle playing with her dad in our room at the Costanoa Lodge.

The on-site restaurant was open for all meals and served a variety of fresh choices, often from local vendors.  Service was a little slow during peak breakfast hours, but the coffee and fresh orange juice came quickly and were refilled often.

Walking around the grounds we stumbled upon wonderful views in unexpected places.  There are plenty of places for kids to run around and explore safely.  We also checked out the tent bungalows and cabins for future visits.  I highly recommend the cabins which looked comfortable and many sat on a ridge with great views.  The “pace of nature” tag line is not far off.

While we enjoyed breakfasts and a couple of hours exploring both the grounds and the hot tub, Costanoa was our base for visiting Ano Nuevo State Park (~3 miles away), Half Moon Bay (~24 miles away) and everything in between.

Details on reservations, prices, and activities can be found at www.costanoa.com.  Sign up for the mailing list for great deals.

Disclosure: I received no compensation for this review.  All opinions expressed are those of the author.