Last year I introduced my husband and toddler to Hong Kong during a two-day stopover. While traversing a densely populated city with an energetic toddler was daunting, we traveled on foot and public transportation from playground to playground.
Playground: Hong Kong Park
Hong Kong Park Playground
We loaded my daughter, Mirielle, in her stroller and walked to the TsimShaTsui (TST) Star Ferry Pier, picking up pineapple buns before hopping on the historic ride across the harbor to Central. The excitement of joining boats scurrying across the harbor was topped entering the maze of pedestrian walkways, bridges, tunnels, hotels, shops and offices through the Central business district. Soon we were playing a game, working our way uphill without “touching” the street.
Visiting the Hong Kong Park Aviary
A few wrong turns eventually let us to the grounds of the former garrison, now Hong Kong Park. The park includes lakes, a museum of Tea Ware, a conservatory, an aviary and a multi-level playground. Mirielle fell asleep before reaching the playground, so we headed for the northwest corner of the park to the Peak Tram lower terminus. Hong Kong Park, 19, Cotton Tree Drive, Central. Peak Tram, 33 Garden Road, Central.
Playground: Mount Austin Playground and Peak Galleria
'Junk' for tourists at the Peak
Since 1888, the Peak Tramway funicular has climbed 1,350 meters through residential towers to Victoria Peak. Built before strollers, we struggled to wedge ours in the tram without waking Mirielle. At the top, we were presented with a tower full of tourist enticements, so we quickly headed outside. Reaching the overlook, we were rewarded with a panoramic view, albeit foggy, of greater Hong Kong.
Cafe Deco
We lunched at Café Deco in the Peak Galleria, which provided a global menu, great views and a small children’s play area. After lunch, while looking for Mount Austin Road and our next playground, we found one right in the Galleria complex. Filled with children right out of school, Mirielle ran off to climb and explore. Café Deco, Level 1-2 Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Road, The Peak.
Playground at the Peak.
The playgrounds were great for Mirielle, but mom was ready for her own treat and we headed back to our hotel to freshen up for dinner. Spring Deer Restaurant in TST is famous for Pekinese food including duck, but I was dreaming about the “Beijing Spaghetti.” These hand-pulled, thick, chewy wheat noodles in a sweet-tangy tomato sauce that had me fighting my daughter for the last bite. Spring Deer, 42 Mody Road, TsimShaTsui.
'Beijing Spaghetti' and other hand-pulled noodles at Spring Deer.
This was originally published in the Summer 2009 issue of HipCompass Escapes.
Hong Kong with Kids? Follow the Path of the Playgrounds. (Day Two) | Backpack to Buggy // Feb 17, 2010 at 10:07 am
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Great post, Meg!
As someone who grew up in Hong Kong, I vividly remember my playground times in the city. Although many people think of Hong Kong as strictly glitzy metropolitan, it is remarkably kid-friendly.
I see that most of your visited playgrounds are located in Central or some of the more outlying areas of Hong Kong. Did you ever go to the south side? I lived in Repulse Bay as a child, and the Repulse Bay Hotel complex has a great playground for kids, located just upstairs from delicious Indian and Cantonese restaurants – perfect for a good meal and entertaining the kids.
Also, the Stanley area (also on south side) is great for beach views and a lot of open space on the fairly new boardwalk.
You are absolutely right on the reputation vs. kid friendliness, Alex. The people are just as kid-friendly as the infrastructure.
We only had two days and didn’t want to overextend ourselves otherwise I would have taken the family out to Sai Kung or on a boat ride through Aberdeen Harbour. Stanley beach is beautiful, but I remember the cheesy tourist shops at the market being a distraction.
I spent six months at UST, so I saw a good deal of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and the NT. I also spend a lot of time on the south side of HKI, often by accident because in Cantonese from the mouth of gwailo, Deep Water Bay and Clear Water Bay sound pretty similar.
I love reading your blog. I am going to Hong Kong this summer! I am a vegetarian so I am nervous about eating over there. But after reading this post, I am exciting to try the Beijing Spaghetti!
On your advice we visited the Hong Kong Park – the kids loved it. It was stinkin hot, but so great to find a park in hong Kong.
THANKS! Will blog about it too