Backpack to Buggy

Last year I introduced my husband and toddler to Hong Kong during a two-day stopover. While traversing a densely populated city with an energetic toddler was daunting, we traveled on foot and public transportation from playground to playground.

Playground: Kowloon Park

Mirielle at Yum Cha.

After a dim sum breakfast, we traded our buggy for a backpack to navigate the markets and crowds of Kowloon.  We walked up the tourist heart of Nathan Road, refusing touts and enjoying window shopping before heading into Kowloon Park.  The park is as exciting as Nathan Road, with unusual gardens, a bird pond, aviary and another fantastic playground filled with younger children in the morning. Kowloon Park, Nathan and Haiphong Roads.

New found friends at the Kowloon Park playground.

After running off breakfast, we boarded the MTR to Mongkok East station and headed to the Flower, Bird and Goldfish markets.  Riding the subway was plenty of fun for Mirielle, but the color of Flower Market Road, the birds and colorful cages of Yuen Po Street Bird Park, or the bags of crickets will turn heads of both adults and children.  Walking south along Tung Choi Street, we passed fish and aquarium stores resembling a carnival with bags of goldfish hanging on racks just asking to be poked by a toddler.  Flower Market Road and Yuen Po Street are on the north side of Prince Edward Road, West. Tung Choi Street and the Goldfish Market are to the south.

Touring Mongkok.

Playground: Macpherson Playground

The smell from food stalls and restaurants as we closed in on Argyle Street tempted us into a random eatery.  The staff was surprised to see us, but an English speaking waiter took our kid friendly order of a duck and rice plate and pork noodles.  After lunch we walked through the Ladies Market on Tung Choi Street buying tacky magnets and dollar watches.  A left on Shantung Street brought us to the basic playground co-located with soccer pitch at Macpherson playground.  Mirielle was more interested in the teenage boys kicking the ball than the swings. Macpherson Playground, 59 Sai Yee Street, Mongkok.

Mmmmmmore good Hong Kong food.

The MTR took us back from Mongkok to our hotel for a quick swim after which we were too tired to head out again.  Room service and a bottle of wine paired well with the Symphony of Lights.  This musical, laser and light extravaganza on the buildings of Hong Kong and Kowloon lulled Mirielle to sleep and let my husband and I admire the vibrant city we had explored.

Hong Kong with Kids? Day One

Hong Kong Lodging

This was originally published in the Summer 2009 issue of HipCompass Escapes.

Last year I introduced my husband and toddler to Hong Kong during a two-day stopover. While traversing a densely populated city with an energetic toddler was daunting, we traveled on foot and public transportation from playground to playground.

Playground: Hong Kong Park

Hong Kong Park Playground

We loaded my daughter, Mirielle, in her stroller and walked to the TsimShaTsui (TST) Star Ferry Pier, picking up pineapple buns before hopping on the historic ride across the harbor to Central.  The excitement of joining boats scurrying across the harbor was topped entering the maze of pedestrian walkways, bridges, tunnels, hotels, shops and offices through the Central business district.  Soon we were playing a game, working our way uphill without “touching” the street.

Visiting the Hong Kong Park Aviary

A few wrong turns eventually let us to the grounds of the former garrison, now Hong Kong Park.  The park includes lakes, a museum of Tea Ware, a conservatory, an aviary and a multi-level playground.  Mirielle fell asleep before reaching the playground, so we headed for the northwest corner of the park to the Peak Tram lower terminus. Hong Kong Park, 19, Cotton Tree Drive, Central. Peak Tram, 33 Garden Road, Central.

Playground: Mount Austin Playground and Peak Galleria

'Junk' for tourists at the Peak

Since 1888, the Peak Tramway funicular has climbed 1,350 meters through residential towers to Victoria Peak.  Built before strollers, we struggled to wedge ours in the tram without waking Mirielle.  At the top, we were presented with a tower full of tourist enticements, so we quickly headed outside.  Reaching the overlook, we were rewarded with a panoramic view, albeit foggy, of greater Hong Kong.

Cafe Deco

We lunched at Café Deco in the Peak Galleria, which provided a global menu, great views and a small children’s play area.  After lunch, while looking for Mount Austin Road and our next playground, we found one right in the Galleria complex. Filled with children right out of school, Mirielle ran off to climb and explore. Café Deco, Level 1-2 Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Road, The Peak.

Playground at the Peak.

The playgrounds were great for Mirielle, but mom was ready for her own treat and we headed back to our hotel to freshen up for dinner. Spring Deer Restaurant in TST is famous for Pekinese food including duck, but I was dreaming about the “Beijing Spaghetti.”   These hand-pulled, thick, chewy wheat noodles in a sweet-tangy tomato sauce that had me fighting my daughter for the last bite. Spring Deer, 42 Mody Road, TsimShaTsui.

'Beijing Spaghetti' and other hand-pulled noodles at Spring Deer.

Hong Kong with Kids? Day Two

Hong Kong Lodging

This was originally published in the Summer 2009 issue of HipCompass Escapes.